How to Handle Foundationless Frames

Almost all beekeepers who use Langstroth-style hives intuitively adopt a similar method of handling frames. We grasp them with our hands on each end, and either hold them up vertically or push the lower edge up towards our body to examine the nearest side in a flat, horizontal position. Then we reverse the motion, swinging the lower edge up in the opposite direction so that we can see the back of the frame. When comb is built upon a substrate of foundation, this is a quick and secure way of looking at both sides.

When working with foundationless frames, whether wired, or not, these familiar motions may result in the parts of the comb shearing off when there is a lot of nectar or honey in the cells, or even just a lot of bees.

In order to prevent this, beekeepers sometimes resort to the awkward maneuver of holding a foundationless frame out at right angles to their body and craning their necks to get a sidelong look at the front and back faces. But it’s hard to see down into the cells this way.

Fortunately, there is another way to easily look at both sides. The damage to foundationless comb from the common frame handling method occurs when it swings from a vertical orientation, through a horizontal arc and then back to vertical one. The weaker comb attachment due to the lack of foundation just can’t support the weight in the horizontal position.

Keep the foundationless comb always in a single vertical plane

Step 1: Hold the comb in the usual way with one hand at each end of the top bar.

Step 2 - Frame rotation started, at halfway point (vertical).

Step 2: Then simultaneously lower your left hand and raise your right hand as the top of the frame rotates to a vertical position.

Step 3 - Arms fully crossed, frame upside down.

Step 3: Then continue the arc downward with your right forearm ending up crossed over your left. You are now looking at the same near surface of the frame, but it is upside down.

Step 4:To see the back side of the frame, just pull the right-hand side of the frame towards your face while simultaneously pushing the left side away, uncrossing your arms.

Step 5: Now, the far side of the frame is visible (though, also still upside down) and you can easily look straight into the cells.

When you’ve seen enough, just reverse the motions and the frame will end up back in position to be slotted back down into the hive. All without ever being put through the stress of being rotated through a horizontal arc.

If you’re left-handed, you can just reverse these instructions and begin by raising your left arm over your right, if that feels more comfortable.

So why not do this for every frame, even ones with foundation?

You could, but there is a slight disadvantage. Bees create individual cells that slant slightly downward towards the back. When a frame is held with the top bar upwards, you can easily see down into the cell. When the frame is examined while upside down, it is a little harder to see the far end. But you can still see eggs and the telltale glint of royal jelly pooled over tiny larvae.

Does this harm the brood?

There appears to be no damage to either the larvae or pupae of workers or drones from being briefly upside down. Frames with pupating (capped) queen cells should always be held upright in the same orientation as they would be when in the hive. So, neither the more-common horizontal rotation, nor this technique should be used for frames with queen cells. Fortunately, queens take scarcely more than a week to pupate, so the interruption to the inspection schedule is short, and only for the frames with developing cells.

Do I need to use this technique forever?

Eventually foundationless frames acquire a more-secure attachment. And with brood frames, the successive layers of cocoons that become embedded in the wax over the years give it a structural stiffness similar to foundation. Unless they choose to add wires, most foundationless beekeepers use the crush-and-strain method of honey collection (or slice the combs into sections to make comb honey). So those frames stay new and vulnerable each year. The inspection requirements for honey frames are minimal, however, so this isn’t a big problem.